Hanashiki Onsen: Sekiseikan Honkan

Hanashiki Onsen Sekiseikan Honkan is a cozy, quiet hot spring located right next to Shiriyaki Onsen. Its poetic name, which translates to “flower carpet,” comes from a legend that cherry blossom petals covered the water when Minamoto no Yoritomo first discovered it. It is also known as an inn with ties to the poet Wakayama Bokusui.

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Shiriyaki Onsen

I’ve always wanted to visit Shiriyaki Onsen if I had the chance. The name “Shiriyaki” is quite funny—they say it comes from people sitting on hot stones in the riverbed to cure hemorrhoids. After a 30-minute bus ride deep into the mountains from Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station, the gateway to Kusatsu Onsen, and a 15-minute walk, this is the scenery that unfolds.

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Kanashima Onsen: Fuki-no-yu

Kanashima is such a tiny station that the only sign you see after hopping off is for this onsen. Fuki-no-yu at Kanashima Onsen feels like a local hangout for the neighborhood grandmas and grandpas. The brownish, gentle water—a calcium-sodium chloride spring—has a distinct iron scent and taste.

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Dokusawa Onsen Kaminoyu

I visited Kaminoyu at Dokusawa Onsen, located a bit past Suwa Taisha Shrine in Nagano. It’s a secluded single inn tucked away beyond a residential area near the mountains, and the cherry blossoms along the way were stunning. Apparently, the name “Dokusawa” (Poison Stream) was given to hide a nearby gold mine! This mineral spring is also famous as one of the “hidden hot springs” used by the warlord Takeda Shingen.

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A Trip to Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen

I’m pretty sure I passed through Yudanaka Station on a ski trip to Shiga Kogen a few years ago, but my memory of it is a bit fuzzy. It might be because it was already pitch black and I just hopped in a taxi straight to the Kumanoyu ski area. Today, I took the bus to the nearby hot spring town, and taking a moment to look around the station properly, I realized it has a wonderful, old-fashioned atmosphere.

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Shibu Onsen Oyu

Shibu Onsen’s Oyu is located right in the center of the town, directly beneath the Onsen Shrine. It features wooden interiors with two separate baths: one for high temperature and one for low. The water is a brownish color with a slightly grippy feel on the skin, and a distinct metallic iron taste.

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Oyu at Yudanaka Onsen

If you’re a fan of hot springs, you’ve probably seen the “Yokozuna” rankings. Interestingly, Yudanaka is actually ranked at the very top for the East! This community bath is just as grand as the surrounding ryokans, but it’s usually only open to locals and overnight guests.

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