Getting Ready

We used to say we’d visit Scandinavia “once we get older.” But then everything just lined up: my wife managed to get two weeks off, a friend was currently stationed in Sweden and we wanted to visit while they were there, we had always wanted to see the fjords, and we were dying to do some Nordic interior shopping. So, we decided to make the trip happen.

So, we had four main themes for this trip:

• Sightseeing in the fjords
• Touring castles and royal palaces
• Shopping for Nordic design goods
• Staying in hotels where we could experience authentic Nordic design

Since we had some time before the trip, we did a lot of prep work, which was actually pretty fun. First, the flights. My Swedish colleague kept warning me that “Scandinavia is bigger than you think, so getting around is a mission.” While checking the SAS website, I discovered the “SAS Airpass.” If you fly SAS to and from Tokyo, you can get domestic flights within Scandinavia for a bargain (about $75 each). This saved us a lot on transportation costs!

For the fjord sightseeing, I emailed the local tourist information centers in advance. They were super helpful, telling me which public transport was running during that season, providing timetables, and even suggesting the best spots to see. Booking hotels and local tours was also a breeze since you can do almost everything online or via email these days, even if it’s all in English.

The only thing that worried us was the temperature in May. Researching online and in books, the average seemed to be around 10°C (50°F). However, right before we left, Scandinavia had a weird heatwave with temperatures hitting over 20°C (68°F). Just in case, we both brought jackets with removable fleece linings.

Arriving in Oslo

The first surprise when we landed in Oslo was definitely the weather. It was May 9th. It was pretty chilly when we left Tokyo, so we were wearing heavy long sleeves, but it was 24°C (75°F) in Oslo! The sun felt so strong as soon as we stepped off the plane that short sleeves would have been fine. We arrived after 6 PM, but the sun was still high in the sky and it actually felt a bit hot.

For our first “Nordic style” hotel, we chose the Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel. It’s a modern, 37-story glass building right next to Oslo Central Station. Our room was on the 29th floor. It wasn’t huge, but the color palette and interior design were so calming and nice. Watching the sunset over the city at 9:30 PM was a bit of a surreal experience. My first impression of Norway’s capital was that it’s surprisingly compact.

Sightseeing in Oslo City

For city sightseeing, we at least wanted to see Munch’s “The Scream” at the National Gallery and the Viking Ship Museum. In the end, we decided to hit the Royal Palace -> National Gallery -> Oslo City Hall -> Oslo Cathedral -> Akershus Fortress -> Viking Ship Museum. We bought a 24-hour Oslo Pass at our hotel, which gives you free public transport and museum entry, and headed out.

The area around the Royal Palace has beautiful, well-maintained green parks. The cool morning air made it a super refreshing walk. Seeing people lounging on the grass and others cycling to work (I assume?) looking so relaxed and happy was lovely. It finally turned 10 AM, so we headed into the National Gallery. A group of elementary school kids and their teacher were already there waiting for the doors to open. Besides “The Scream,” I was surprised to see so many famous works like Van Gogh’s self-portrait, and pieces by Cézanne, Monet, Picasso, and Rouault that I’d seen in books before.

We heard that a pipe organ performance using a massive 6,000-pipe organ takes place at Oslo Cathedral at noon. While waiting for that, we toured Oslo City Hall, where the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony is held. The twin-tower exterior is striking, and the grand hall with its huge murals is really impressive—honestly much more interesting than I expected. The view from the hall looking out over the ferry terminal and yacht harbor at the City Hall Square is also fantastic.

When we got to Oslo Cathedral, the organ performance was just starting. It seemed to be part of a midday mass. The solemn church music played on the organ, combined with the female priest’s gentle sermon, was strangely calming. After the mass, we took a closer look at the organ. It was truly magnificent, and the stained glass was incredibly beautiful as well.

Akershus Fortress (Akershus slott) overlooks the Oslo Fjord. With its thick walls and cannons, it looks like a very serious stronghold. Apparently, it was besieged nine times between 1308 and 1716 but never fell, so it really was an impregnable fortress. Inside, you can see chapels, grand halls, dungeons, and royal tombs, all of which were fascinating. Just like the palace, this fortress has guards, and we happened to catch the changing of the guard. Watching it was pretty entertaining—every movement was extremely sharp and precise, yet it felt like it took a long time to get anything done! I’m sure every move has a meaning, but I couldn’t tell what it was.

I heard taking the ferry to the Bygdøy district, where the Viking Ship Museum is located, is the way to go, so we gave it a try. Water taxis run about every 30 minutes, and it was a relaxing ride across the bay. Very pleasant! The Viking Ship Museum is located just past a fancy residential area in Bygdøy, and for some reason, there weren’t many tourists. They have three excavated hulls on display, and one of them was particularly stunning. It’s hard to believe such beautiful curves were crafted from wood over 1,000 years ago. Apparently, these ships were incredibly fast and capable, reaching not just the North and Baltic Seas, but the Mediterranean and North America too.

For dinner, we went to a restaurant called Lofoten, where you can enjoy your meal with a view of the Oslo Fjord. Their signature “Lofoten Fish Soup” was a beautiful green soup with white fish and mussels. It had a lovely herb aroma and a rich seafood taste with just the right amount of acidity. Delicious. We followed that with a salad and grilled salmon. The salmon was thick and juicy, and the simple pairing of salt and a slightly sweet sauce was just perfect. I was expecting something a bit heavy, but this was actually high-quality. Actually, the place was fully booked. We went in just after 5 PM and said something like, “Man, it would be so nice to eat by the window here,” and the staff were kind enough to let us have a table as long as we left by 7 PM before the reservations arrived (lol).

Norway in a Nutshell

There are several fjord tours based out of Oslo or Bergen, and Norway in a Nutshell is one of the most popular. It’s a package that includes all the trains, ferries, and buses you need (including reservations), and you can buy it in advance from Japan. When I requested shipping, they sent the tickets and a little pamphlet to my house. Moments like these really make you appreciate the convenience of the internet.

Norway in a Nutshell is one of the packages for seeing the Sognefjord. There are various routes, but we chose the one-way trip from Oslo to Bergen. From Oslo, you take a train to Myrdal, then switch to the famous Flåm Railway, which descends a steep grade to Flåm, where the fjord ferry awaits. After enjoying the scenery for two hours on the ferry, you arrive in Gudvangen. From there, it’s a bus ride up a zigzagging road so steep it would make any driver nervous! After reaching the top and passing the Stalheim Hotel, we headed to Voss, and finally caught another train from Voss to Bergen.

Since we didn’t want to drag our heavy suitcases through all those transfers, I looked into a luggage forwarding service. I emailed Norwegian State Railways (NSB), and they told me that while they only handle groups, a company called Expressgods handles individuals. They even told me their office was at the far end of Platform 19 (so helpful!). Expressgods has a website, but it was all in Norwegian and I couldn’t read a word, so I just wrote down the phone number.

On the morning before our departure, I went to Platform 19 to check it out. I found a small sign for Expressgods, but no office. There was a tiny wooden shack halfway down the platform, but it definitely didn’t look like an office. Walking further to the very end, I saw another sign pointing out of the station. About 100 meters away, I found a warehouse with Expressgods trucks and containers, so I knew I was in the right place, but I still couldn’t find the office door! I eventually called the number. A man who spoke English answered. I explained, “I’m outside the warehouse at the end of Platform 19, but I can’t find the office.” He actually walked outside to find me! He led me to the office (which was hidden behind the warehouse—impossible to find on your own!), and I confirmed they could send our bags to our hotel in Bergen that same day. I checked the price and hours, said “see you tomorrow,” and headed back.

Oslo — Myrdal — Flåm

It’s May 11th. We dropped off our bags at Expressgods (it cost 312.5 NOK) and hopped on the 8:11 AM train from Oslo. It’s a 4.5-hour journey to Myrdal, where we transfer to the Flåm Railway. The train interior used a lot of wood and felt very cozy. Along the way, we passed mirror-like lakes and Norway’s largest alpine ski resort. The train climbed higher and higher until we reached Finse, the highest point on the Bergen Line. It looked like a world of ice and snow—pure white snow against glacier-blue ice and water. It was stunning. A little further down, at 867 meters, we reached Myrdal.

 
At Myrdal, the beautiful green Flåm Railway was already waiting for us. It’s one of the steepest standard-gauge railways in Northern Europe, with an average gradient of 55 meters per 1,000 meters. As it snakes through the rocky mountains, you see waterfalls dropping from impossible heights and cute red and yellow houses clinging to the mountainside. Nobody stayed in their seats—everyone was rushing back and forth between the windows on both sides.

Shortly after leaving Myrdal, the train arrives at Kjosfossen waterfall. I’ve seen this powerful waterfall in books and on TV, but seeing it in person was something else. It has so much water that it actually generates power for the Flåm Railway. The train stops here for a bit so you can get out and feel the spray. The rest of the route is just as breathtaking. The last photo is of Rallarvegen, a winding road that climbs toward Myrdal. It was originally built as a transport road for the Bergen Line construction. You can really feel the immense effort it took to build these railways.

Flåm, the end of the line, is just 2 meters above sea level. There’s a cruise ship docked right there, but looking at the mountains towering over everything, it’s hard to believe this is the ocean. The combination of the ship, the cute station, the green train, and the mountains is a view you probably won’t find anywhere else in the world.

Flåm — Gudvangen

Sognefjorden is one of the longest and deepest fjords in the world. As the boat pulls away, seagulls immediately follow us, which is a reminder that we are indeed on the ocean. As we slowly glide between mountains rising on both sides, we see numerous waterfalls and tiny villages clinging to the steep cliffs. The announcement says some villages were only accessible by boat until recently, but seeing the terrain, I’m more shocked that they managed to build roads there at all. I really wonder what daily life is like for the people living there.

Up on the deck, the wind makes it feel more than just “cool”—it’s cold! But whenever we pass a massive 500-meter drop like Sagfossen or approach a charming little village, everyone rushes out to take in the view. Watching the rugged cliffs, snowy peaks in the distance, and the calm water all at once makes you lose track of time—it’s a strange, magical feeling. By the time we reached Gudvangen, it was still bright out, but the sun was hidden behind the high mountains and the temperature had dropped quite a bit.

Gudvangen — Bergen

From the ferry terminus at Gudvangen, we caught a bus to Voss. This bus climbs a ridiculously steep zigzagging road called Stalheimskleiva (I saw a TV show once that said there’s a 2-meter height difference between the front and back of the bus—I thought it was a joke, but it might actually be true). The hairpin turns are so tight that it feels like you’re just turning constantly as you climb. At the top is Stalheim, where there’s a hotel with a legendary view. The bus gives everyone a 20-minute break there. Looking back down at the valley we just climbed was breathtakingly beautiful.

Voss is a tourist hub that has produced many Norwegian skiers and even hosts a jazz festival. I saw a beautiful stone church from the bus, but we had to transfer immediately to the Bergen Line train. It was past 7 PM and still broad daylight in this mountain town—it’s just weird. As we headed toward Bergen, the weather got gloomy and the exhaustion of a 12-hour travel day hit us both, so we took a nap. Bergen Station, with its domed platform and stone building, is quite lovely. But man, the temperature difference between Oslo and Bergen is no joke! (lol)

Driving Around Hardangerfjord

On May 12th, we planned to rent a car and drive through the Hardangerfjord area southeast of Bergen. Since it wasn’t high season yet, the “Explore Hardanger Fjord” bus and boat tour wasn’t running, and the public transport options were a bit too tight for our schedule. The local tourist info office told us that even though it’s not peak season, it’s the best time to visit because all the flowers are in bloom. So, we decided to drive.

The plan was to go from Bergen via Norheimsund (home to the Steinsdalsfossen waterfall) to Kvandal, then take a ferry across the fjord. The ferry passes Utne and carries the car to Kinsarvik. From there, we’d drive south along the fjord to Lofthus—a place where the composer Grieg often visited and wrote masterpieces, and where the fruit blossoms are said to be spectacular.

Bergen’s Confusing Road Layout

They say it rains two-thirds of the year in Bergen, but the next morning was sunny! The harbor view was stunning, and our breakfast included salmon (which we didn’t get at the Oslo Radisson), which made me happy. The salmon here is just incredible. After breakfast, I walked about 2km to the Hertz office, but got totally lost due to construction everywhere. Finally got the car—my first time driving a left-hand drive on the right side of the road. I immediately mixed up the turn signal and the wipers (lol). Between getting lost on foot and all the one-way streets, it was a real struggle just to get back to the hotel to pick up my wife.

Bergen — Norheimsund — Kvandal

After leaving Bergen on Route 16, signs for Norheimsund started appearing. This road, Route 7, which eventually goes to Voss, was our main route. We saw snow-capped mountains and drove through highlands where lakes were still frozen until we reached Norheimsund. Just 2km before the town is the massive Steinsdalsfossen. It’s a powerful waterfall, and you can actually walk behind the curtain of water. Looking through the falling water at the town of Norheimsund and the distant mountains is just beautiful.

Parking the car in Norheimsund and walking to the small harbor, the view literally made me gasp. A sailing ship was docked there, and the tiny town against the snowy mountains was so picturesque, especially with everything reflecting in the mirror-like water. My guidebook called it the most beautiful town in Norway, and I totally get it.

The road from here to Kvandal runs right along the fjord coastline. Thanks to the perfect weather and lack of crowds, we had these incredible views all to ourselves.

Kvandal — Utne — Lofthus

At Kvandal harbor, a few cars were already waiting for the ferry. I noticed they were all lined up for Utne, and none for Kinsarvik. We needed to get to Kinsarvik to reach Lofthus. A ferry arrived, cars drove off, and an attendant started walking to each car to collect the fare. I hopped out and asked if I could get to Kinsarvik. He told me, “Take this ferry to Utne, then switch to another ferry there. Plus, Utne is worth seeing!” So we decided to go to Utne first.

 
After a 10-minute ferry ride, we arrived in the cute town of Utne. We had an hour before the transfer, so we took a walk. Everywhere you looked was like a postcard. The green mountains, white snow, bright blue water, white blossoms on the trees, red and yellow tulips, and the orange and white rooftops… the contrast was stunning. The ferry guy mentioned a very old hotel, which turned out to be the Utne Hotel. While we were looking at it from the outside, a woman watering the garden told us it’s the oldest hotel in Norway, built in 1722 and still in use today. She kindly invited us to take a look inside, which we gratefully did.

The ferry from Utne to Kinsarvik was smaller and mostly empty (we were the only tourists). It was a peaceful 10-minute ride, looking at the tiny villages on the gentle green slopes. From Kinsarvik, it was a 10-minute drive to Lofthus, a beautiful town covered in white blossoms. I remembered the tourist info person had suggested staying at Hotel Ullensvang in Lofthus, so we decided to stop by.

We were hungry, so I asked the receptionist—who was wearing a cute traditional folk costume—if we could grab a meal. The local specialty dishes they served were actually quite good. The historic interior of the hotel was amazing, but obviously, the view of the fjord and the opposite shore was the real star. I saw some guests who looked like they were there for a long stay—lucky them!

Sightseeing in Bergen City

 
May 13th. I woke up to the sound of rain, which wasn’t too surprising since it was raining and snowing on the way back yesterday… kind of a bummer. But as we were eating breakfast, it suddenly cleared up! After breakfast, we went to see the city. Bryggen is the row of wooden buildings facing the harbor. Behind those cute facades is a strange, cluttered maze of wooden structures. The fish market is nearby and is full of life. They mainly sell salmon and shrimp, but also white fish, jars of roe, and some mystery canned goods. There were also fur coats and sweaters for sale—it had a fun, bustling market vibe.

We were walking toward Håkon’s Hall (Håkonshallen) and Rosenkrantz Tower (Rosenkrantztårnet) when we saw a bunch of kids in formal wear with berets, carrying what looked like crossbows. We figured something was happening, but nothing started right away, so we walked past. Håkon’s Hall had a sign saying it was the 150th anniversary (since May 13th, 1856), so the kids were definitely part of that. It didn’t look like the hall was opening soon, so we decided to head up Mount Fløyen (Fløyen) instead.

You get to Mount Fløyen via a 5-minute funicular ride up a steep slope. I heard it was the place to get a panoramic view of Bergen, and man, that was an understatement. The weather kept switching between rain and sunshine every 30 minutes, but luckily we got a clear window at the top to see this stunning view.

Around 11 AM, a signal gun went off, and things kicked into gear. Back at the church, marching bands and those kids we saw earlier started marching toward Håkon’s Hall. We followed them, but once they arrived, they all just kind of scattered for a break. It seemed like the hall was closed for the event anyway, so we called it a day there.

The Castle Hotel: Häckeberga Slott

We flew from Bergen to Copenhagen, then took a 30-minute train to Malmö, Sweden, where we met up with my friend kosa. He had recommended we stay at a castle hotel, and he was kind enough to drive us there. Häckeberga Slott is a castle on the shores of a lake, about 40 minutes from Malmö.

To thank kosa and celebrate our reunion, we invited him to dinner at the hotel. The hotel staff was very accommodating despite the last-minute request. I didn’t know this, but asparagus is a local specialty and was perfectly in season, so our dinner revolved around it. We started with white asparagus and prosciutto, followed by white fish with green asparagus. Seasonal ingredients are always the best, but this was truly exceptional. The main course was tender meat with a Japanese-style mushroom and leek sauce—delicious. It was served with a risotto accompanied by distinctively long Swedish carrots.

The food was so good and the conversation so lively that I totally forgot to take more pictures (lol). After the main, we had cheese: a strong French one, a mild one, and goat cheese. They were served with apple and apricot jam—amazing with the cheese and the wine. For dessert, we had elderberry ice cream (berries are also a Swedish specialty!) and a bitter chocolate mousse. Every dish was delicate and suited a Japanese palate perfectly.

The main building only has a few rooms and was booked up, but our room in the annex was simple and nice. The castle lit up at night looked pretty cool from our window.

May 14th was a gorgeous sunny morning. Since kosa was taking us castle-hopping, the good weather was a real blessing. After a slow breakfast, we explored the inside of the castle. With lots of deer antlers on the walls and antique furniture, the ground floor feels exactly like a medieval castle. The second floor has conference rooms, and it seems they are used for meetings. These rooms are decorated with modern art, so you get this weird mix of old and new.

We spent some time lounging around the grounds. The spring flowers near the fountain were starting to bloom, and the green grass made for a lovely stroll. We watched a family of waterbirds and just enjoyed some luxurious, quiet time by the lake. kosa met us before noon to start our tour of Skåne’s castles. He had taken me to some of these on a business trip last month, but this time we added even more. I’m so grateful to kosa for giving my wife and me such a great experience.

Touring Skåne’s Castles

We drove for a bit and found a beautiful white church. There was a mass going on, and it made us feel like we were seeing real local life. Buildings around here often have the year they were built displayed on them, and the numbers on this church were arranged in a really cute way.

First up was Sövdeborg Castle. It’s hard to believe the lake was frozen solid when I was here last month! Now everything is green and bright. The contrast between the blue sky, the red-brown bricks, and the green grass is stunning. The water buffalo-looking animals were there again—were their horns always that long? They looked healthier than last time too (lol).

After a quick look at Snogeholm Castle (our first choice for a hotel), we headed to Marsvinsholm Castle. People were enjoying a party at the café in front of the castle—everyone seemed to be celebrating the arrival of spring. The moat, which was frozen a month ago, had completely thawed, and the castle looked perfect against the green trees and blue sky.

Castle number four was Bjärsjöholm. This was a new one for me. It’s quite old and almost looks like a warehouse, but the orange mottled roof against the blue sky is gorgeous. The smell of stacked hay felt strangely nostalgic. The castles in Skåne aren’t quite what you imagine when you think of “medieval European castles”—they feel more like grand manor houses for local lords.

Driving through this region feels a bit like being in Hokkaido. You have endless green fields or carpets of yellow dandelions and rapeseed, dotted with red-roofed houses, all under a huge sky with fluffy white clouds. It’s amazing how much the landscape changed from a bleak winter scene to such vivid colors in just over a month.

We stopped in Ystad for lunch. Since it was Sunday, most shops were closed and there weren’t many people. The town is full of cute, colorful houses and is also a ferry port for Poland and Germany. By the way, the red flag with the yellow cross is the flag of Skåne. This area used to belong to Denmark, so there’s a distinct local dialect and even some separatist sentiment.

Next, we drove to Ales stenar, a Viking monument. You walk up a hill from the coast and suddenly see these massive stones arranged in the shape of a ship in the middle of nowhere. No one knows exactly why it was built, but it’s a mysterious sight that makes you want to learn more about the Vikings.

Castle number five was Glimmingehus. This castle is featured on the 20 SEK bill with Nils’ Adventures, and my Swedish colleague K suggested I visit it. Built in 1499, it’s much larger than it looks from a distance. The walls are several meters thick, which you can see by looking through the windows—it was a real tank of a castle. Out of all the ones we saw today, this one looked the most stunning against the green grass and blue sky.

Our final stop was Övedskloster Castle. Many of the castles in Skåne are actually privately owned and still used as residences, so sometimes you can’t enter (it’s actually more surprising that they let people in at all!). We arrived late, and while we were looking from a distance, an old man talked to kosa in Swedish from an upper window. He was kind enough to tell us we could come into the garden (kosa to the rescue again!). Compared to the more masculine castles we saw earlier, this one had an elegance reminiscent of French chateaus. The tree-lined path leading to the gate was beautiful, and the garden was full of water lilies. It was a perfect way to end the tour.

Looping Around the Øresund

Helsingborg in Sweden sits right across the strait from Helsingør in Denmark. On May 15th, our plan was to head north from Malmö to Helsingborg, ferry over to Helsingør, then drive south through Copenhagen and back to Malmö, doing a full loop around the Øresund.

It’s about an hour from Malmö to Helsingborg. We had a relaxing drive through yellow carpets of rapeseed flowers. After a quick look at Kärnan (only the gate remains of this old castle), we hopped on the ferry. kosa told us that about 10 minutes into the ride, once you cross the border, you can buy alcohol tax-free. In Sweden, you can only buy anything stronger than light beer at state-run shops with limited hours and high prices, so many people take the ferry to Denmark just to buy booze.

 
As the ferry nears Helsingør, Kronborg Castle (Kronborg Slot) appears on the right. This place is famous as the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet (I had no idea!) and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a grand Renaissance-style castle, quite different from the ones we saw earlier. Touring the halls, chapel, and dungeons was quite an experience.

In Copenhagen, we did some shopping along Strøget and walked around Nyhavn. In the King’s New Square (Kongens Nytorv) right next to Nyhavn, there was an outdoor exhibit called “Spirit of the Wild.” It featured incredible animal photography, including the famous Japanese snow monkeys in hot springs. Seeing photos of Japanese cranes and monkeys against the backdrop of old European buildings was a bit surreal.

At Amalienborg Palace (Amalienborg Slot), we happened to catch a small changing of the guard. The Danish guards have these fluffy bearskin hats, blue uniforms, and cute little black bags—it’s actually quite charming. Since there weren’t many people around, we (probably illegally) followed them a bit and even walked alongside them.

Dinner back in Malmö was at a seafood restaurant I hadn’t visited before. We had the recommended seasonal white asparagus dish—delicious! Usually, the food on business trips is a hit-or-miss, but this whole trip has been a win. Even the dessert was incredible. The waiter seemed a bit grumpy at first, but kosa’s Swedish got him talking. When I said we were going to Helsinki, he told me we should definitely check out a Russian restaurant there with a similar vibe.

On to Stockholm

May 16th was moving day to Stockholm. The weather in Malmö was mediocre. kosa dropped us off at the station before work. It felt weird saying goodbye to each other. We arrived at Stockholm Arlanda Airport an hour after leaving Copenhagen. Since our hotel was right next to Stockholm Central Station, we took the Arlanda Express. It takes 18 minutes at 200km/h. It’s fast, but at 200 SEK, it’s pricey! Since the flight was only an hour but the check-in and travel time took so long, I kind of regretted not taking the train instead of flying.

Nordic Sea Hotel

One of the things I was looking forward to in Stockholm was staying at the Nordic Sea Hotel. Since it’s sea-themed, the first thing you see in the lobby is a massive aquarium full of fish. The lobby uses indirect lighting and has a bar behind the aquarium, making it a very cool, chill space. Right next to the entrance is the Ice Bar.

The rooms have striking blue walls. Everything from the bedspread to the carpet and the art on the walls uses blue, which looks great against the light wood flooring. I definitely want to use this as inspiration for my own place.

The Ice Bar was a blast. You have to wear a silver thermal parka to go through the double doors. Everything—the tables, the chairs, even the bottle-shaped decorations—is made of ice. They serve cocktails made with Absolute Vodka, and the glasses are made of ice too. Since it’s a shot bar, you even pay your bill in this freezer room. The staff uniforms are pretty cute. I don’t think I’ve ever drank in a -5°C environment, and I felt like I wasn’t getting drunk at all… until I stepped out of the room and realized I was actually pretty hammered. I guess that’s why people in cold climates drink such strong stuff.

Right next to the Nordic Sea is its sister hotel, Nordic Light, which is themed around lighting. I peeked into the lobby, and while the photos made it look a bit flashy, in person, it was a very sophisticated lighting display. Now I want to stay there too.

Sightseeing in Stockholm City

 
May 17th. Sunny again! I feel like we’re outrunning the rain. We spent the previous day at the National Museum. They have a huge collection, including works by Rembrandt, El Greco, Gauguin, and Renoir, and entry was free. Just like the National Gallery in Oslo, this is amazing—I’d go all the time if I lived here. Today was so nice we decided to climb the City Hall tower. After taking the elevator partway, you walk up a spiral ramp to a view of the Old Town (Gamla Stan) floating on the water. It’s a fantastic view.

We headed to the Royal Palace in the Old Town just in time for the changing of the guard. It was a big production with a brass band, but my wife summed it up by saying, “Their hats aren’t as cute.” kosa had also told me to watch for the moment they do a “crab walk,” but I think we missed it (lol). The guards in Norway and Denmark were just more fun to watch. We checked out the Royal Treasury, but the display was so small it was a bit of a letdown for 90 SEK.

Right next door is the Cathedral. I love checking out these massive, historic European churches. Listening to the pipe organ in silence is so peaceful. The current Swedish King even got married here. Gamla Stan looks exactly like what you’d expect from an old European town—even though Nordic design feels so modern, these medieval streets are everywhere.

We took a 10-minute ferry to Djurgården island to visit the Vasa Museum. The Vasa was a warship that sank just a few hundred meters into its maiden voyage. The museum is built around the ship in a huge open space, and you can see it from every floor. Every detail is fascinating, especially the incredibly ornate carvings on the stern.

By the way, according to the museum video, the ship sank because it was top-heavy with too many cannons, had insufficient ballast, and didn’t have enough sails set to maintain balance. Basically, it was a design disaster.

Helsinki: The City of Nordic Design

May 18th. Off to our final stop: Helsinki. As usual, moving day started with bad weather. Helsinki-Vantaa Airport is gorgeous—lots of glass and wood making it feel bright and modern yet warm. It felt much smaller and more personal than I expected.

The city itself feels very different from Oslo or Stockholm. To be honest, it feels a bit more cluttered. You have old European buildings like in Sweden, alongside Russian-influenced architecture and super modern glass buildings. It’s a real melting pot of styles and people—I noticed a lot more Central Asian people here than in the other cities.

In Helsinki, we stayed at the Scandic Simonkenttä right by the station. It’s a stunning glass building. Our room was decorated in wine red and wood, which felt very cozy and high-end.

Helsinki is obsessed with design. You’ll find shops selling Aalto furniture, cafés using it, Arabia and Iittala stores everywhere, and Marimekko with its iconic Unikko patterns. If you’re into design, you’ll never get bored here.

 
We heard Russian food is great here, but the place in our guidebook had closed down. I guess even a one-year-old book is out of date! (lol). As we were wandering, we smelled garlic. We found a place called KYNSILAUKKA, and since it smelled so good, we went in. I had a light beer, garlic soup, and a lamb stew, while my wife had a seafood casserole. Every dish was a winner.

Shopping at the Arabia Outlet

One of the main reasons we came to Helsinki last was the Arabia outlet. We didn’t want to carry heavy ceramics and glass around for the whole trip. I called to check their hours, and the lady laughed when I asked if anyone spoke English. I think she laughed because everyone in Northern Europe speaks English perfectly, and my question was just silly to her.

We took Tram 6 to ARABIA. The tram had a clown on it—pretty funny. The stop was in a kind of desolate office area, and we were worried we were in the wrong place. But we found the building, which had a cool café and a library—it looked like a school. The outlet was tucked away in that same building.

Inside, the store is split: full-price on the right, outlet on the left. The outlet side had some amazing deals. Items had red tags or yellow sale tags. The Iittala outlet items didn’t have the usual “i” sticker, but I couldn’t see anything wrong with them. Everything was basically half-price! We bought glasses, mugs, some glass bird ornaments, and cutlery. Now that I think about it, I should have bought more and just shipped it back home! (lol)