Shiobara Onsen Fudo-no-yu

I reached Fudo-no-yu after a two-hour hike along the Shiobara trails. While it’s actually just a five-minute walk from Fukuwata Onsen, I chose the long route specifically for the “after-hike” experience. Nothing beats the feeling of soaking in a hidden spring after pushing yourself through the mountains.

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Ubako Onsen: Shumeikan

Shumeikan is located in the Ubako area of Hakone. I’d heard about it before as a hot spring where the water naturally flows from the gaps in the rocks. Curious, I did a little research and found out that the flow is heavily influenced by rainfall—increasing from spring through summer, but stopping completely during the winter months.

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Hanashiki Onsen: Sekiseikan Honkan

Hanashiki Onsen Sekiseikan Honkan is a cozy, quiet hot spring located right next to Shiriyaki Onsen. Its poetic name, which translates to “flower carpet,” comes from a legend that cherry blossom petals covered the water when Minamoto no Yoritomo first discovered it. It is also known as an inn with ties to the poet Wakayama Bokusui.

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Shiriyaki Onsen

I’ve always wanted to visit Shiriyaki Onsen if I had the chance. The name “Shiriyaki” is quite funny—they say it comes from people sitting on hot stones in the riverbed to cure hemorrhoids. After a 30-minute bus ride deep into the mountains from Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station, the gateway to Kusatsu Onsen, and a 15-minute walk, this is the scenery that unfolds.

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Kanashima Onsen: Fuki-no-yu

Kanashima is such a tiny station that the only sign you see after hopping off is for this onsen. Fuki-no-yu at Kanashima Onsen feels like a local hangout for the neighborhood grandmas and grandpas. The brownish, gentle water—a calcium-sodium chloride spring—has a distinct iron scent and taste.

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Tsurumaki Onsen: Kobo no Sato-yu

Tsurumaki Onsen is just about an hour from Shinjuku on the Odakyu Line, making it the perfect spot for those spontaneous “I need a soak!” moments that hit you in the early afternoon. Known for its high calcium content, the water here is a slightly alkaline calcium/sodium chloride spring that’s believed to have great healing properties.

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