[Access] By the JR Highway Bus “Momiji-go”, get off at Fukuwata Onsen and walk for about 5 minutes.
[Fee] 200 yen

I arrived at Fudo-no-yu after a nearly two-hour hike along the trail starting from the Mikaeri Suspension Bridge at the entrance of Shiobara Onsen. To be honest, you don’t actually have to walk that far—you can get there in just five minutes by crossing the Houki River from Fukuwata Onsen and heading into the woods. However, there’s something special about a hot spring after a long mountain trek, so I intentionally took the long way around.

Just as I was starting to feel exhausted, the hot spring appeared nestled against the mountain, with a few men already soaking and looking thoroughly relaxed. This was Fudo-no-yu, a place where you can soak leisurely to the soothing sound of the river. The bathtub is shaped like a gourd, with a generous flow of water pouring in from one side. Judging by the reddish-brown stains on the tub and the distinct scent, the water is clearly rich in iron; it also had a slightly salty taste. The temperature was absolutely perfect—just right for a long, slow soak in this cold weather. It felt like pure bliss.

The bath is mixed-gender, but I imagine it’s quite a challenge for women to join in. There’s a footbath nearby where I saw a couple relaxing; I suspect they gave up on the main bath and decided to warm up there instead.

In Fukuwata Onsen, there is another similar mixed-gender open-air bath called Iwa-no-yu, which is located right along the riverbank. That one was packed with people, so I decided to pass on it this time. Still, both of these outdoor baths are truly wonderful if you can catch them when they aren’t crowded.