[Access] About 1 hour by car from Hanazono IC
[Webpage] Road station, Ryokami Onsen, Yaukushi-no-Yu (Japanese)

Today’s main event was a challenging day hike up Mt. Ryokami. The snow on the trail required light crampons, and with the significant elevation gain, especially the strain on my knees on the descent, I was completely exhausted. All I wanted was to soak in a hot spring, so I stopped by Ryokami Onsen Yakushi-no-Yu, conveniently located next to a roadside station.

One of my favorite things about roadside stations in the countryside is that they often sell a variety of local goods, but it’s rare to find one with an onsen attached. Ryokami Onsen Yakushi-no-Yu is an impressive facility, with a large rest area and a dining hall. The onsen water, with a pH of 9.1, is an alkaline spring that leaves your skin feeling smooth. Unfortunately, the strong smell of chlorine was overwhelming, so it wasn’t the most relaxing experience. Although I understand it might be necessary for hygiene, it was a bit disappointing.

The hike up Mt. Ryokami from Hinata-Oya doesn’t offer many open views, but there are interesting spots along the way, like sections with chains, clear mountain streams, and Koubou’s Spring with its fresh-tasting water. Reaching the red torii gate of Ryokami Shrine, deep in the mountains, was striking – I was taken aback by how isolated it felt.

Next to the red torii stands a stone wolf statue, rather than the usual guardian lion-dogs. Ryokami Shrine venerates the Japanese wolf (yamainu) as a deity, which is quite unique. There’s another wolf statue further in, and I couldn’t resist taking a closer look.

Reaching the summit of Mt. Ryokami was particularly satisfying after the strenuous climb. Thanks to the crisp winter air, I could clearly see the deep ridges of the mountain like lines in a well-defined silhouette. I was even treated to a view of Mt. Fuji in the distance.

Ryokami Shrine consists of three parts: the Oku-miya (summit shrine), the main shrine with the wolf statue, and the Satomiya shrine, located below Ryokami Lodge. I didn’t notice Satomiya on my way up, but I stopped by after descending. Known as Youkami Shrine, it had an atmosphere that was quietly enchanting.