[Access] About 30 minutes by car from Nasu IC
[Website] Kita Onsen Official Website
Kita Onsen Ryokan, with its iconic giant red tengu mask overlooking the hot spring bath, has been on my list for a long time. I found out there’s a route to descend straight to Kita Onsen from the Nasu Mountains, after trekking the three peaks: Chausu-dake, Asahi-dake, and Sanbon-yari. Given the manageable course time and snow-free conditions, I set off to enjoy the late autumn views and soak at Kita Onsen.
This ryokan consists of three historic buildings from the Edo, Meiji, and Showa periods, exuding a nostalgic charm. It offers a range of baths, including the tengu bath I’d set my sights on, while women can also enjoy the onsen which is said to be good for eyes. Then outside, there’s a massive open-air pool.
The tengu bath is an adventure to find, hidden within a maze-like hallway with a curtain marking the entry. It’s located right off the corridor, making it practically visible from inside. This mixed-gender bath, with its iron-infused warm onsen water, is known as a fertility bath. The source water flows generously from the tub, with cold spring water for temperature adjustment. The large red tengu mask staring down gives it a mysterious vibe, enhanced by the charm plaques displayed. The onsen water here is gentle on the skin, unlike the usual acidic hot springs like Shiobara in the area. If I had time, I would have tried the open-air pool, though it might be reserved for overnight guests.
Driving up to the Nasu Ropeway station, I was greeted by a stunning morning view of a sea of clouds illuminated by the sunrise – a lucky sight. The ascent up Chausu-dake was cold and windy, but the sunlight behind me helped keep me warm.
After circling Chausu-dake’s crater, I descended to Mine-no-chaya Hut, where the red-brown mountain against lush greenery was beautiful. As I made my way to Asahi-dake, I encountered a few chained areas. I was a bit worried about ice, but the weather held, and I enjoyed the dynamic scenery all the way to the peak.
From Asahi-dake, the landscape softened to greener hills. The marshy area of Shimizu-daira was tricky with the frost melting into mud, but I finally reached Sanbon-yari-dake, the highest point in Nasu, rewarded with panoramic views and even some rare frost crystals!
The gentle Nakano-Okura Ridge trail back was a blessing for my tired legs. The lush beech forests along the way made for a peaceful descent. I finally reached Kita Onsen, where I relaxed in the hot water, enjoying the nearby Komadome Waterfall, which had an ethereal blue-white tint from the mineral-rich water. The area’s mix of hot springs and seasonal beauty makes me want to come back again.