[Access] About 15 minutes by car from Ochibe IC on the Do-O Expressway
[Website]: Ginkonyu

Ginkonyu Onsen had been highly recommended by my onsen-loving friends, so it was always on my list of places to visit. This summer, while staying in my usual spot in Higashikawa, Hokkaido, I decided to stop by Ginkonyu on my way back to Tokyo via Hakodate.

The expansive property features several unique open-air baths scattered across the grounds, each with its own character. The standout for me was Tochini-no-Yu, with its intensely mineral-rich water (a total concentration of 8,600 mg/kg). The bath’s distinctive petroleum-like scent adds to its charm, but in summer, it attracts swarms of horseflies, making the experience both challenging and unforgettable. Battling the bugs to take a dip turned into a funny memory 😊

At Ginkonyu, the open-air baths are exclusively for overnight guests and can be reserved for private use. To access them, you simply pick up a bath tag at the front desk, which indicates availability, and head out. The journey to each bath feels like an adventure, crossing suspension bridges and winding through forested trails. While it’s enjoyable in summer, I imagine navigating the same paths in winter might be a challenge.

The highlight of my visit was Tochini-no-Yu, the most unique bath here. The bath features two rustic tubs – one made from a hollowed-out log and another square-shaped, filled with a greenish-brown mineral-rich water. What makes it truly unforgettable is the strong petroleum scent that fills the air. In summer, the smell even attracts horseflies, making a dip quite the adventure. Dealing with the buzzing intruders either by submerging most of your face in the water or waging a gentle battle becomes part of the experience. My wife and kid, however, quickly retreated, leaving me to soak solo 🙂

The intense mineral content of this bath is unmistakable; I could feel my body tiring after just a short soak. Prolonged bathing might even lead to yu-atari (hot spring fatigue) – a testament to the potency of the onsen.

Surrounded by vibrant nature, this bath also offers mineral-rich waters with a total concentration of 7,600 mg/kg. After soaking, it’s lovely to wander through the woods and cool off before trying another bath.

A hidden gem resembling a treehouse, with a carved-out rock tub nestled in greenery. Its tranquil atmosphere is perfect for a relaxing soak.

Located near the beautiful Ochibe River, this bath is enclosed in a wooden hut where sunlight filters through, giving the water a mesmerizing bluish-white glow. The combination of the serene river and lush greenery makes it a haven for both hot spring enthusiasts and nature lovers.

Ginkonyu also features a spacious indoor bath, highlighting its abundant water sources. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t try all the baths in one visit – a good reason to return! The meals were equally impressive. The highlight was a local specialty miso soup called miminori, served at breakfast, which was a delightful introduction to the region’s unique flavors.

Ginkonyu has quickly become one of my favorite onsen stays. Its combination of secluded natural baths, rich mineral waters, and delicious local cuisine makes it a must-visit for any hot spring enthusiast.