[Access] About 2 hours from Chojabaru Kuju Trailhead, via Amaga-ike Pond
[Website] Hokkein Onsen Lodge (Japanese)

While planning a hike to Kyushu’s famous Mount Kuju, I wanted to revisit Hokkein Onsen Sanso, a place I had fond memories of from a solo middle school trip. I remembered the challenge of reaching it in the rain and relaxing in the unique onsen, where floating mineral deposits danced in the water. This time, I climbed Mount Kuju from Makinoto Pass, went through Kita-senrigahama to reach Hokkein Onsen Sanso, stayed the night, and enjoyed a relaxed hike up Mount Ofuna the next day, returning to Chojabaru via Amaga-ike Pond.

I arrived at this nostalgic mountain lodge after finishing my hike on Mount Kuju, a little before 2 pm when they start to accept check-in. I remembered this peaceful atmosphere, with only a few climbers around.

Due to Golden Week, individual rooms weren’t available, so I stayed in a shared dormitory. The lodge gave instructions at check-in, including storing shoes, meal times, and an option for an early breakfast box. The dorm was divided into sections labeled A to H, each with five futon sets.

To protect the natural environment, soap and shampoo are not allowed here, and there’s no wash area – just a simple bath. Considering the mountain lodge’s size and that it accepts day visitors, the bath area is quite small. I actually bathed twice this day. The first time, right after check-in, I could relax without too many people. But by evening, it was so crowded that people had to line up to get into the bath. That was a bit tough.

Hokkein Onsen’s water has calcium, magnesium, and sodium sulfate, and the spring source is close to the lodge. The water temperature is about 43°C (109°F), making it comfortable and soothing. I remember the mineral deposits floating in the water from when I first visited in middle school – like bits of “debris” but in a nostalgic way. After a mountain hike, it’s such a rare treat to enjoy a hot spring in a mountain hut, and I’m truly grateful for it.

Dinner was served at 5:30 PM, and it was a typical mountain hut meal. The person sitting across from me was from Hyogo prefecture. He told me that he had started hiking in Kyushu on the 30th, climbing Mt. Aso right after arriving, and today they had parked their car at Makinoto Pass and climbed to the lodge from a different trailhead. He was planning to climb Mt. Kuju the next day and then Mt. Sobo the following day, almost the same schedule as mine. I was surprised. Also, I never expected Mt. Aso to be accessible for hiking at this time because of its volcanic activity (I would have loved to climb it too).

The next day, I had planned to take a bus from Chojabaru to Makinoto Pass, where I had left my car, but there were fewer buses than I expected. So, I decided to leave much earlier than planned and asked for my breakfast to be prepared as a packed meal. I could pick it up at 9 PM the previous night, which was very helpful. The packed meal came in a green paper bag with a map of the area, which was quite memorable. Among the many signed photos on the wall, I noticed a signature from Yoki Tanaka, who’s famous of his Great Traverse. I thought, “Ah, of course, he should have visited here” when I saw it.

The route from Makinoto Pass, passing through the summit of Mt. Kuju and Kita Senrigahama, was a fascinating one, with significant changes in scenery. The lush, green carpet of the Kuju foothills gave way to the sight of sulfuric Mt. Iou, with smoke rising from it. Probably due to the volcanic gases, there were almost no plants growing in the desolate Kita Senrigahama, creating a stark contrast in the landscape. It was an interesting route with such dramatic changes in the environment.

The next day, although there were some clouds, the sky was mostly clear, making for a pleasant hiking morning. I passed through Boga-tsuru, where many colorful tents were set up, and made my way to the trailhead for Mt. Taisen. The beginning of the hike was tough with rocky, uneven terrain and mud, but I kept pushing forward.

As I went higher, the wind became incredibly strong, and the temperature dropped significantly, so I put on my down jacket. It was a good decision to bring my fleece hiking clothes, down jacket, and a GORE-TEX windbreaker – my outfit felt perfect for light winter hiking.

Finally, after being cautious of the strong winds, I reached the summit of Mt. Taisen. The 360-degree view was absolutely stunning. Below, I could see Boga-tsuru and Hokkein Onsen Sanso, with the mountains of Kuju, including Mt. Kuju that I climbed the day before, stretching beyond them. I was surprised to see that the thermometer under the summit post showed 0°C.

I returned to Boga-tsuru and enjoyed the breakfast packed for me. This spacious and pleasant place also serves as a large campground, with many colorful tents set up, creating a wonderful and vibrant scene.

This route is the same one I took in reverse when I was in middle school, heading to Hokkein Onsen. However, all I remember from that time is the rain, and I couldn’t recall much else. This time, the weather was clear, making for a pleasant hike of just under two hours. It was the perfect 2-day mountain trip.