[Access] Approx. 10 minutes by car from Ikawa Station on the Oigawa Railway
[Webpage] Onishiya Ryokan (Japanese, unfortuntaely closed in Dec 2021)

When I was a child, my grandparents often took me to ride the steam locomotives of the Oigawa Railway. At the terminus, Senzu Station, I vividly remember seeing a small, bright red trolley train, which left a lasting impression. I always dreamed of taking that trolley for a slow, scenic journey to Oku-Oi. This time, it finally came true, as I set off on a short family trip with my child and my parents – a gesture of appreciation for them.

We stayed at Onishiya Ryokan, a cozy inn that taps into the natural hot springs of Ikawa. Nestled in a peaceful mountain setting near Ikawa Dam, the ryokan is slightly off the beaten path, offering a tranquil escape.

The inn features two small baths, akin to a home-style setup. One standout feature was the medicinal herb bath labeled Dokudami for the day. It’s rare to find a bath infused with dokudami (houttuynia), a plant known for its strong scent. Surprisingly, the aroma wasn’t overpowering, and it made for an interesting experience. Meanwhile, the alkaline hot spring water felt gentle and soothing on the skin.

What sets Onishiya apart is its cuisine. The landlady, a certified senior sommelier, serves a creative blend of Italian-inspired game dishes and traditional Japanese flavors. The meal began with a surprising treat: crispy yamame trout skin, an irresistible snack that pairs perfectly with alcohol. Other highlights included yamame gratin, papillote, and a mix of Japanese dishes seamlessly incorporated into the course. Enjoying such refined cuisine in a traditional Japanese-style room was a unique and memorable experience.

The journey on the Oigawa Railway is an attraction in itself. From vintage SL trains to charming trolley cars and the rare Abt rack-and-pinion system used for steep inclines, the railway is full of fascinating features. Along the route, you’ll find scenic spots, nostalgic station buildings, and even hard-ticket stubs still in use – a delightful step back in time for any train enthusiast.