[Access] About 50 mins by car from Kumamoto IC
[Rakuten Travel HP] Jigoku Onsen Seifuso

I heard that guests staying at Yamaguchi Ryokan in Tarutama Onsen can also use the baths at Jigoku Onsen, which is located a little further up the mountain, so I decided to go check it out. The “Suzume-no-yu” (Sparrow’s Bath) at Seifuso is a mud bath with a strong, lingering sulfur scent. It’s divided into several small tubs, and at first glance, the atmospheric vibe feels like a mix of Kuroyu in Nyuto Onsen and Shika-no-yu in Nasu Yumoto (though maybe only hardcore onsen fans will get that reference lol). But the way gas or something bubbles up from the bottom of the mud bath definitely gives it that “hellish” feel.

I noticed something that looked like a mud-covered doll next to the tub labeled “Atsume-no-yu” (Hot Water). When I looked closer, it was actually just an old guy who had smeared mud all over his face and body and was sitting perfectly still (lol). Suzume-no-yu is basically mixed bathing, but with so many guys sprawled out like that, it’s a pretty tough spot for women to join in (in fact, I saw several women walk in and then immediately turn back). The water is highly acidic with a pH of 1.7. I tried a tiny sip of the mud water; it’s sour, but it doesn’t have that unpleasant harshness you often find in this kind of water—it’s actually quite refreshing. If it wasn’t for the mud, it might even be drinkable.

It seems that if you stay here, you can enjoy rustic dishes like wild boar or pheasant hot pot. There’s a definite vibe of “hardcore” onsen enthusiasts being everywhere, which is a bit much at times (not that I should talk, I guess…), but I’d love to stay over and just have a long, relaxing soak sometime.