Yugashima Onsen: Ochairou Murakami

[Access] About 30 minutes by bus from Shuzenji Station (Izu Hakone Railway). Get off at the Shinjuku bus stop, and it’s right there.
[Rakuten Travel Website] Yugashima Onsen Ochairou Murakami

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Ochairou Murakami is a beautiful ryokan located in Yugashima Onsen. The building itself is a designated Tangible Cultural Property. As soon as you step into the genkan (entrance), the plum blossom-shaped decorations at the back of the earthen floor area really catch your eye. The hallways leading to the rooms and the views of the garden from the windows have such a refined, classic atmosphere that makes you feel instantly relaxed. Once in the room, the first things that grab your attention are the magnificent tokonoma (alcove) and the tsuke-shoin (built-in desk). The intricate patterns on the shoji screens and windows of the tsuke-shoin are simply stunning.
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Our nakai (attendant) was kind enough to book the private open-air bath for us starting after 3 PM. It was quite large and felt very open—perfect for a family. Listening to the gentle sound of the river while watching the snow fall quietly was a truly luxurious experience. The water is clear, tasteless, and odorless, and much like Osawa Onsen, it feels very gentle on the skin. While Izu doesn’t have many “quirky” hot springs, I think many of them share this skin-friendly quality. Besides the private bath, Ochairou also has the “Tengu-no-yu” and “Hisago-yu” open-air baths, as well as an indoor bath with a uniquely shaped oval tub.
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I heard there was a guided tour of the building after breakfast, so I decided to join. They explained all the different areas that are registered cultural properties. It turns out the vast majority of the building is designated, and even the room we stayed in was part of that! I had been curious about the shoji patterns in the tsuke-shoin when we checked in, and the tour guide explained that every room has a different design. From the “Kaede 1” room where we stayed to the “Matsu 1” room upstairs with its incredible kumiko woodwork, the attention to detail by the craftsmen was really impressive.
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Even the light fixtures throughout the building have their own unique patterns and shapes. They cast a soft glow that seems to add a bit of personality to each space. Ochairou Murakami is the kind of place where just wandering around and spotting these little details is an experience in itself.

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