[Access] About 40 minutes by car from Katsunuma IC
[Webpage] Kawaura Onsen Yamagata-kan (Japanese)
Kawaura Onsen is famous as one of Takeda Shingen’s hidden hot springs. True to its name, the ryokan was founded by the descendants of Yamagata Masakage, one of Takeda’s 24 generals. I’ve always wanted to visit, and this time, I combined my stay with a hike at Nishizawa Gorge.
The hot spring water at Kawaura Onsen is alkaline simple spring, with a natural temperature of about 41°C – perfect for bathing as it is. The water is gentle on the skin and is said to have been used by Takeda’s army for healing, with Takeda Shingen himself reportedly strategizing here.
You can enjoy several baths, including a mixed-gender outdoor bath overlooking the valley and Yakushi-no-yu which offers views of the garden.
The ryokan is located along the mountain stream of Oku-fuefuki River, which leads to Nishizawa Gorge. During summer, the lush greenery of the mountains and the beauty of the gorge make for a wonderful setting. Inside the ryokan, you’ll find displays of Yamagata Masakage’s armor and helmets, making it a must-visit for history buffs, especially those interested in the Sengoku era.
Dinner was plentiful and started with Koshu wine. The highlights included marbled horse sashimi and salt-grilled yamame (mountain trout), both of which were incredibly delicious.
One of the main reasons for this trip was to hike Nishizawa Gorge. I bought some local yomogi mochi, a specialty sold near the entrance, and set off with my child. While the trail can be a bit challenging, we aimed to reach the stunning Seven Tiers of Nanatsugama Falls, known for their emerald green waters.
The trail runs alongside the stream, offering occasional spots to play near the river. Though some sections require chains for support, it isn’t overly dangerous. After some effort, we finally made it to the breathtaking falls!
The round trip took about 5 hours, and we were satisfied with the adventure and the beauty of the gorge.