Nukabira Onsen – Nakamura-ya

[Access] About 1 hour by car from Obihiro Airport.
[Website] Nukabira Onsen, Nakamuraya (Japanese)

One of the hot spring inns recommended by friends who gather in Higashikawa is Nakamuraya in Nukabira Onsen. Instead of flying into Asahikawa Airport as usual, this year, I decided to fly into Obihiro Airport and make a stop at Nukabira Onsen before heading to Higashikawa. I stayed at Nakamuraya and planned to visit the Taushubetsu River Bridge before moving on.

The lobby of Nakamuraya has a variety of things like large audio equipment, sofas, a hearth, a blackboard, and books, creating a slightly cluttered yet very relaxing atmosphere. Even in summer, the hearth is lit in the evening, and the warm tartary buckwheat tea is delicious (the average yearly temperature in Nukabira is 3.7°C, making it one of the coldest spots in Japan, except for Mt. Fuji’s summit, according to the Japan Meteorological Agency). Guests can also enjoy roasting snacks over the hearth. Speaking of snacks, this time, there were unlimited potato chips made from Shihoro potatoes (you could get a bag, finish it, and get another one), which was a pleasant surprise.

Nakamuraya has a mixed-gender outdoor bath and separate indoor baths for men and women. In summer, deer occasionally visit the outdoor bath, and on this day, a bunch of dragonflies were buzzing over the water, making my kid a bit nervous. I guess the dragonflies don’t feel the heat from the steam?

The indoor baths switch between men and women depending on the time of day. That evening, the men’s bath featured a large wooden bear with hot spring water gushing from its mouth. The bath was spacious and comfortable, but the onsen water was quite hot.

The changing room was spacious with wooden chairs and a baby bed, as well as sofas and tables, making it a comfortable place to relax. I also liked the attention to detail, such as the hot spring water flowing under the floor of the changing room, which kept it warm. It felt like a sauna, which was nice when it’s cold, but on that day, the temperature was quite high, so it was a bit much.

The indoor bath has a distinctive star-like shape, with smooth pebbles lining the bottom that feel nice underfoot. The bath itself is very spacious, with a great sense of openness. The onsen water temperature at the source is 49.8°C, and the water is a sodium chloride and bicarbonate spring, which is clear, colorless, and odorless. The total mineral content is 1141 mg/kg, making it a gentle, easy-to-bathe-in hot spring. When you rub your skin in the water, it feels slightly sticky, but after bathing, your skin feels smooth and refreshed.

Nakamuraya’s meals are focused on health, with plenty of vegetables. My kid, who said, “Healthy means it’s not going to taste good, right? Will it be okay?” wasn’t wrong. For adults, the food was delicious, but it seems it wasn’t to a middle schooler’s taste. When I talked to my friends in Higashikawa, they said they usually request a special kids’ meal for their children 🙂

The room named “Hitorishizuka” was a bit of a mystery at first, but it turned out to be a private, hidden space. It’s a cozy area with audio equipment, a projector, board games, manga, and books, and you can reserve it for private use. I had stayed at Nakamuraya before, but this time I discovered this room for the first time. While my family went to bed early, I enjoyed relaxing, reading books, and listening to records.

In the morning, we were served low-temperature pasteurized milk from Tokachi Shinmura Farm. It was absolutely delicious! Since I’m the only one in my family who drinks milk, I happily had everyone’s share.

As I went out for breakfast, I saw not only deer but also a raccoon dog wandering around that morning. Nakamuraya in the Nukabira Onsen is always a relaxing place to stay, and I highly recommend it.

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