Yunokami Onsen – Fuji-no-yu Ebisu-ya

[Access] About a 3-minute walk from Yunokami Onsen Station on the Aizu Railway Line
[Website] Yunokami Onsen Fuji-no-yu Ebisuya

I first saw a photo of the sakura trees and the thatched-roof station building in a magazine, and it left such a strong impression that I decided to visit Yunokami Onsen. Nearby, I discovered Ouchi-juku, along with several onsen inns scattered throughout the area. Yunokami Onsen itself is a small but quaint hot spring town with about 20 inns clustered together. Its onsen waters are mildly alkaline, colorless, and clear, with a smooth texture.

The open-air bath at Ebisuya overlooks the Okawa Gorge, with two towering rocks standing over 20 meters tall in front of it. These are called the “Married Couple Rocks,” with the taller one representing the husband and the shorter one the wife. The resemblance to people is intriguing! Despite it being Golden Week, I had the entire bath to myself, enjoying the silky, smooth water and the breathtaking view.

The small, picturesque Yunokami Onsen Station features a thatched roof, creating a unique atmosphere. There were still a few lingering cherry blossoms, which added to its charm. The station even has a footbath where you can soak and relax while waiting for the train – such a lovely idea 🙂

About 20 minutes by car from Yunokami Onsen Station, I arrived at Ouchi-juku. This historic post town was once part of the Minamiyama Road, which connected Aizu-Wakamatsu to Nikko and was used by the Aizu domain during the Edo period. The rows of beautifully preserved thatched-roof houses create a great atmosphere, though the modern maintenance makes it feel slightly too polished for my taste.

One of the old houses has been converted into a restaurant, where a large number of dried iwana fish hang on display, adding to the rustic charm. Here, I tried Takatou soba, a 100% buckwheat noodle dish eaten with a long green onion used as chopsticks. You can eat the onion as well, which is spicy but adds an interesting twist. I also enjoyed salt-grilled iwana, as well as mochi topped with golden soybean flour.

Near Yunokami Onsen is Tonohetsuri, a site with towering, eroded rock formations that resemble a series of stone towers. I couldn’t miss the chance to visit. You can walk along the eroded parts of the rocks, and as you can see in the photos, the landscape feels surreal.

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