[Access] Approximately 7 minutes by car from JR Iyo-Saijo Station
[Webpage] Yunotani Onsen (Japanese)

During my pilgrimage on a tight schedule, I usually looked for accommodations near where I expected to finish walking for the day. However, when fatigue set in, and a hot spring inn was along the route, I would prioritize rest even if it meant covering fewer miles. Yunotani Onsen was one such stop for a well-deserved break.

Yunotani Onsen has a history spanning 1,400 years. Its onsen waters are alkaline cold mineral springs, slightly greenish with a faint sulfur scent. The moment I immersed myself, I felt my body warm up quickly – a blessing, especially on a day when I was utterly exhausted. I hoped for another soak before departing the next morning, but as the baths didn’t open until 8:30 AM, I made sure to take another relaxing dip after dinner.

I had initially booked a Japanese-style room in the main building. However, due to renovations, I was upgraded to a detached room. The room was surprisingly chic for a pilgrimage stay, offering a perfect retreat for someone as tired as I was.

Both dinner and breakfast at Yunotani Onsen were exceptional, with the highlight being the freshly squeezed Ehime orange juice served at breakfast. What left an even deeper impression was the kindness of the staff. During breakfast, one of them remarked, “Pilgrims need to eat a lot to keep going,” and I struck up a conversation. Before I left, they discreetly handed me rice balls for lunch, saying, “This is a little secret, okay?” These small but heartfelt gestures of kindness and warmth were a recurring theme throughout my pilgrimage, and I couldn’t be more grateful.

While the detached room offered a modern vibe, Yunotani Onsen’s main building retained a nostalgic charm. At the entrance to the main building, there was even a footbath where visitors could soak and relax.